Jus de Fraise (Strawberry Juice)

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It’s strawberry season here in Morocco. Strawberries are sold by the kilo off of wooden carts piled high with the fruit, crowded into the narrow streets of the souk already bursting with produce. Vendors with hands stained red call out the price, usually equaling to about 1 dollar for a kilo. By nightfall, the mountains of strawberries dwindle to hills, prices dip, and a few stragglers (often including myself) do some late-night shopping for dessert, usually a salad with finely diced bananas, oranges, apples, and strawberries, dressed in orange juice. Locals do not dip strawberries in chocolate, and they do not eat them with biscuits and cream. These strawberries need no embellishment.

The first time I tried strawberry juice was here in Morocco, and it was a revelation. I probably drank it standing up at the counter of a mahalaba, a  shop that sells juice, sandwiches, and yogurt. Or it could have been at a local cafe in the warmer months of summer, along with a chicken briwat (a chicken filled pastry). In any case, I was instantly smitten. Strawberries have never been my favorite fruit, but blended with orange juice and drunk in a cold glass, it’s the best smoothie you’ve ever had.

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serves 4-6

Ingredients:

  • 2 pounds strawberries, hulled and halved
  • 1 cup orange juice
  • 4 tablespoons sugar
  1. Place all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Enjoy!

 

Tunisian Meatballs with Buttered Couscous from David Tanis’s “One Good Dish”

When I first moved to Morocco, I imagined I might travel to other parts of North Africa, or the Maghreb in French, referring to Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, and Libya. Turns out it’s not quite so easy to traverse the borders, the political relationship between Morocco and it’s neighbor Algeria being tenuous. I rarely meet Algerians here, and have yet to meet a Tunisian or Libyan. As a result, those countries now hold a sort of mystique for me. So when I saw this recipe for Tunisian meatballs on seriouseats.com from New York Times food writer David Tanis, I jumped at the opportunity. I may not be able to skip over to Tunisia for a sunny weekend on the beach, but I can pretend I’m there while enjoying these hearty, spiced meatballs with buttery couscous on my terrace.

These meatballs are somewhat of a project but so worth the extra time and effort. Don’t be intimidated by the long list of ingredients; most of them are spices and will take just a couple seconds to measure out and add. I used ground beef because the butcher was out of lamb, but I imagine lamb would be even more authentic. Savory spiced meatballs in a light tomato sauce top steaming bowls of couscous and sweet golden raisins. They keep well and make a large batch, so you can enjoy them throughout the week. And once you finish the couscous, use them to top a toasted baguette to make an exotic meatball sub. It’s comfort food without the predictability.

Get the recipe here.

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Warm Eggplant Tahini Sauce (Baba Ghanoush)

IMG_0386I used to be intimidated by eggplants because I wasn’t sure what to do with them. Oddly shaped, disconcertingly shiny, and so purple, eggplants seem to have an other-worldly quality to them. But then I discovered Mark Bittman’s brilliant technique of cooking a whole eggplant on a hot pan, no prep or extra ingredients required. Smooth and smoky, ready to eat sliced open with a sprinkle of salt. Or, pureed into baba ghanoush, the creamy Middle Eastern dip with tahini and lemon.

My love affair with Middle Eastern food began a few years ago when I moved to Boston for school and discovered the joys of hummus, falafel,  ful medames (a fava bean dip), mezze, and the mix of savory and sweet often found in Arabic cuisine. Growing up in the suburbs of Southern California, my paradigm of international cuisine was shaped by sushi and tacos. In Boston I discovered Lebanese and Syrian food, not to mention Indian, Nepalese, and Ethiopian (still dreaming about the tangy injera at Fasika in East Somerville). I discovered Middle Eastern food at the same time I began to learn to cook, so ingredients like cumin, tahini, and za’atar became staples in my kitchen. And I prefer eating mezze style. I would rather pick and choose from an array of salads, creamy dips, grilled vegetables, and a few small meat dishes than take on one large, monotonous sandwich or pizza.

Baba ghanoush is one of my favorite additions to my lunchtime mezze spread, because it counts as a vegetable even though it tastes and feels decadent. Plus, it’s simple and can be prepared in advance. I’ve blended plain yogurt with my version to add tang and creaminess. Serve it with cherry tomatoes, slices of cucumber, fresh bread, or my favorite- smeared onto hard-boiled eggs sprinkled with flaky salt and cumin. It doesn’t hurt to use farm-fresh eggs, like I used here (beware- all other eggs will look sad and anemic once you’ve spoiled yourself with the real deal).

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makes about 1 cup.

Ingredients:

  • 1 eggplant
  • 1 small container plain yogurt (1/2 cup)
  • 1 clove of garlic, grated or finally minced
  • 2 tablespoons tahini
  • juice of 1 lemon
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon cumin
  • a few walnuts (optional)
  • sesame seeds for garnish (optional)
  1. Place eggplant in a dry pan over high heat. Cook over high heat, turning once, until flesh begins to char and break down on both sides (10 to 30 minutes, depending on eggplant).
  2. Scoop out flesh from cooked eggplant and discard skin. Place warm eggplant and all other ingredients into food processor and blend until smooth, about 30 seconds. I like this served warm, sprinkled with sesame seeds, but can be refrigerated for 3-5 days.

Whole Wheat Zucchini Spice Cake with Lemon Glaze

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It may not yet be summer, but the souk is overflowing with zucchini right now, so I felt compelled to take advantage of the bounty and purchase a couple pounds this past weekend. Now faced with the age-old dilemma of zucchini overload in my crisper drawer, I find myself slicing them into omelettes, shaving them into salads, and now, grating them into cake. Zucchini cake is an ingenious strategy to consume your veggies and dessert simultaneously, so you can feel both virtuous and indulgent, which incidentally, is my preferred state of eating.

I wanted this particular loaf cake to be a bit more interesting than a simple vehicle for the ubiquitous squash, however. It shouldn’t just be cake with bits of green- it should have spice, texture, and depth of flavor. So I added whole wheat flour, ground flaxseed and walnuts, and ginger, cinnamon, and coriander, and finished it with a crunchy lemon glaze. It was delicious on day one, even better on days two and three, when the flavors had time to meld. Lemony, slightly spicy, not-too-sweet, and a little hearty, this cake is ideal for afternoon tea or coffee, when you might crave donuts but feel like you should be eating carrot sticks.

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Makes one 9×5 loaf.

Ingredients:

For the cake:

  • 1 medium zucchini, grated
  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • 1/3 cup light brown sugar, lightly packed
  • 1/2 cup oil
  • 1 egg, beaten
  • zest of 1 small lemon
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 3/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 cup AP flour
  • 1/2 cup whole wheat flour
  • 1 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon coriander
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped walnuts
  • 1/4 cup ground flaxseed

For the glaze:

  • 1 cup powdered sugar
  • juice of one medium lemon
  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees f. Grease a 9×5 loaf pan and dust lightly with flour.
  2. Whisk together egg, sugars, vanilla, oil, and lemon zest in large bowl. Stir in grated zucchini.
  3. Whisk flours, spices, and salt in a separate bowl.
  4. Sprinkle baking soda over wet mixture and stir to combine.
  5. Add dry ingredients to wet mixture gradually, whisking as you go. Mix until just combined.
  6. Stir in walnuts and flaxseed. Batter will be very thick.
  7. Spoon into loaf pan, smooth the top with a spatula or large spoon, and bake in preheated oven for 50-55 minutes, or until tester inserted in the middle comes out clean. Let cool for 10 minutes on wire rack and invert.
  8. Since this cake is better on day two, I would wait until the second day to glaze, but if you can’t wait, at least wait until the cake is completely cool. Stir together the powdered sugar and lemon juice with a fork and drizzle over the cake in horizontal lines. The glaze should be pretty thick and just barely pourable.

Curried Chicken Salad with Toasted Almonds and Golden Raisins

I often roast a chicken on Sunday or Monday night to serve to friends or to pick at for the rest of the week. Roasting a whole chicken seemed initially intimidating to me- for no other reason than the fact that I was placing an entire animal in the oven, which, for a convert from semi-vegetarianism seemed a task akin to hunting and butchering my own elk. It turns out, however, that roasting chicken is actually quite simple (thank you jamie oliver)  and it gives me the cozy feeling of being a homemaker, which in reality, I am not.

This week I decided to exercise self-restraint. Instead of devouring the chicken within minutes of emerging from the oven, golden and crispy-skinned and juicy, I waited until it cooled, shredded it to pieces, and decided to make chicken salad for the week. I wanted a salad with all the usual elements- crunch, tartness, sweetness, a little bite. And I wanted to utilize the mountains of fresh spices so readily available here in Tangier.

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Curry, crunchy toasted almonds, chunks of pineapple, plump golden raisins- she’s the exotic cousin to the Waldorf. I used a flaky croissant from one of the many local bakerie to make a sandwich, but I’m sure this salad would be equally delicious heaped onto wheat crackers, toasted brioche, or even slices of green apple. I like to think that this chicken salad forges cultural connections yet unseen in the culinary world (American tradition, Indian spices, Moroccan flair). Or it just provides me with lunch for the week. In any case, I’m excited about it.

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Ingredients:

  • 1 roasted chicken, shredded
  • 1 cup almonds
  • 1/2 cup golden raisins
  • 2 green onions finely chopped
  • 300 grams chopped canned pineapple
  • 2 tablespoons of curry powder (I made my own from this recipe)
  • 1/2 cup mayo
  • 1/2 cup plain yogurt
  • 1/2 a lemon
  1. Preheat the oven to 225 degrees F. Place the almonds on a tray and bake in preheated oven for 10-12 minutes, stirring frequently. I like my almonds very toasty, but be careful not to let them burn! Remove from the oven when they are dark brown and you can smell them.
  2. Meanwhile, soak the golden raisins in the juice from the pineapple. Drain.
  3. When almonds are cool, chop coarsely. Mix curry powder with yogurt and mayonnaise.
  4. Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl with curry-yogurt-mayo mixture. Mix well to make sure salad is uniform. Squeeze lemon into salad, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Salad will keep in refrigerator for four days. Makes enough for about 8 sandwiches.

Lemon Curd

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Lemons are normally a staple in my kitchen. I use lemon juice to make salad dressing and add zing to soup, and lemon zest to cut sweetness in cakes, glazes, even cookies. In the past, I purchased a tidy bag of lemons at Trader Joe’s every week, but here in Morocco, this ubiquitous citrus fruit is not always so abundant. At the peak of summer for example, the marketplace is bursting with figs and peaches, but lemons are harder to come by, given that fruits and vegetables are actually available according to season.

Because it’s February, I feel I’ve got to take advantage of the bounty of winter citrus in the souk. Last year, some French friends of my roommate gave us a jar of homemade lemon curd, and I thought how French, to casually whip up some creme au citron to spread on your morning baguette. It turned out to be exceptionally delicious, spread on toast, mixed into coconut yogurt, eaten with a spoon out of the jar. And with a little research, I realized that it is also simple to make. I made lemon curd yesterday morning to eat with fresh cheese and bread, a perfect accompaniment to my Saturday brunch. Bon appetit.

*note: I felt I could trust Martha (Stewart), so I used her recipe. It makes quite a small amount (about a cup), so you might want to double it for a family.

Ingredients:

  • 3 egg yolks*
  • zest from 1/2 large lemon
  • 1/4 cup lemon juice
  • 6 tablespoons sugar
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1. Combine all ingredients in small saucepan and whisk to combine. Set over medium heat and stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the mixture coats the back of the spoon ( 5-6 minutes).

2. Take off the heat, continuing to stir, and whisk in the butter 1 tablespoon at a time until smooth. Scoop into a small bowl and place plastic wrap (or a clear plastic bag) over the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Leave in the refrigerator for 1 hour (or 45 minutes, if you’re as impatient as I am). Can be refrigerated for 2-3 days.

* I have found the easiest way to separate the yolk from the egg is to crack the egg  in two and pour the yolk back and forth between the halves over a bowl until the white has drizzled out. Use leftover whites for an especially healthy omelette, or an especially delicious batch of meringues.

Semolina Biscotti with Dates and Walnuts

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Too often, we hear “biscotti” and we think of those plastic-wrapped, rock-hard cookies sold on coffee chain counters across America. But this beloved Italian cookie is not to be overshadowed by ungainly drop cookies. Homemade biscotti are toasty and sophisticated, able to withstand dunking in coffee or tea, but tender enough to be eaten on their own.

I discovered these biscotti my first winter in Morocco, during which I drank endless glasses of hot mint tea. Needing a companion to dip in my beverage, I decided to make cookies with dates, walnuts, and semolina flour, all ingredients found in abundance in my neighborhood souk. Moroccans would never chop up dates to put in cookies, but this aberration was a revelation- slightly crisp, with pockets of chewy sweetness and crunch, they have a heartier texture from the semolina flour. Plus, they mix up in one bowl, and are easily adaptable. I can imagine adding orange zest, pistachio, chunks of dark chocolate, or drizzling glaze on top. No need for a special occasion to bake these biscotti. Your afternoon coffee will thank you.

Recipe adapted from http://www.King Arthur Flour.com (golden semolina biscotti)

Makes 15 large biscotti.

Ingredients:

  • 5 tablespoons melted butter
  • 2/3 cup sugar
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 ½ cups AP flour
  • 1/3 cup semolina flour
  • 1 cup chopped walnuts
  • 1 cup chopped dates
  1.  Grease a baking sheet. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.
  2. Stir together the melted butter, sugar, salt, baking powder, and vanilla until blended well. Stir in the eggs one at a time, then blend in the flour and semolina until just mixed. Stir in the chopped dates and walnuts with wooden spoon.
  3. Scoop out the dough and shape into a 10 x 4 inch log. The log will spread as it bakes, so make sure there is room on either side. Bake in preheated oven for 30-35 minutes. Cool for 1 hour.
  4. Slice the log on the diagonal into 1/2 -3/4 wide inch pieces. Place the biscotti on a clean baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 325 degree F oven for 25-30 minutes, or until golden brown. Allow to cool on the sheet.